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DiscoverUSVIMagazine.com
Getting to Know St. John
St. John may be growing fast, but the island still maintains that small-town feel. The pace is much slower than on the mainland, so relax and enjoy the balmy weather and stunning scenery.
Virgin Islands National Park is the heart of St. John, both geographically and logistically. Anchored by Cruz Bay to the west and Coral Bay to the east, the park occupies about two-thirds of the 20-square-mile island and provides most of the island’s sightseeing.
While many visitors opt for an island tour with a taxi driver, others prefer to drive themselves. Either way, there is much to see and, with very few exceptions, the roads are paved.
Cruz Bay is a busy little burg with most of the island’s shopping and restaurants. The park’s Visitor Center, located a five-minute walk from the ferry dock, is a must-see if you’re in Cruz Bay. Pick up maps and brochures about hiking and other activities within the park. A map will help you locate the sightseeing highlights.
The Visitor Center also has a small bookshop with a good selection of island guides, as well as a few gift items you probably won’t find elsewhere. The Cruz Bay Visitor Center is open from 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. daily.
Cruz Bay Park, also called Franklin Powell Park, sits across the road from the ferry dock. With benches and shade, it’s a good spot to people-watch and wait for the ferry. The conch blower statue in the park commemorates the July 3, 1848 date when slaves on St. John, St. Thomas and St. Croix gained their freedom in what was then a Danish territory.
The Cruz Bay Battery, a large white building with a red roof, looms to the left as you arrive in Cruz Bay on the ferry. Now the seat of the island’s government, it served as the island’s fortification in the 1800s. The grounds, open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday, provide good views of Cruz Bay Harbor.
Once you’ve seen the sites in Cruz Bay, head out along North Shore Road for a day of beach-hopping. Caneel Bay Resort is first along the string of stellar beaches. Sun yourself at the main beach, eat at the various restaurants and explore the old plantation ruins that dot the landscape near the parking lot.
Heading east, Hawksnest Bay is a local favorite. The beach is lovely, with snorkeling opportunities available over the reefs.
It takes a couple of minutes to hike downhill to Jumbie Bay, so most visitors bypass this small but intimate beach for Trunk Bay. The most popular beach on St. John, Trunk Bay has cool showers, restrooms, snorkel gear rentals and a snack bar. It can get very busy thanks to busloads of cruise ship passengers on tour — but if you come early or late, you’ll find the beach at its best. Trunk Bay is the only St. John beach with an admission charge.
Cinnamon Bay is next along the North Shore Road. With a campground, restaurant, small store, water-sport equipment rentals, cool showers, restrooms and a gorgeous stretch of white sand, it’s the perfect spot to spend a few hours or even the day. A relaxed hour-long hike beginning just across the road from the beach entrance takes you past plantation ruins and a small Danish-era cemetery.
Continuing east, Maho Bay sits right along the street. It has no facilities, but it provides convenient sunning, swimming and snorkeling at the edge of the road.
If you’re in the neighborhood around dinnertime, Maho Bay Camps, located a 10-minute drive from Maho Bay Beach, welcomes guests at its Pavilion Restaurant. Visitors may also climb down a long flight of steps to the campground’s beach.
Annaberg Plantation lies in the same area. Dating to the 1700s, this historic spot showcases the island’s history. The park has shored up the sugar mill, the cookhouse, the factory and other buildings to make them safe for visitors. During the winter months, you might find a docent on hand to explain the history. Annaberg also provides a stellar view of nearby Tortola.
From Annaberg, it’s just a half-hour walk to Leinster Bay. The beach is nice but unremarkable; however, it’s the starting point for the two-hour hike to secluded Brown Bay. Often, snorkelers heading from Leinster Bay Beach to Waterlemon Cay see starfish littering the ocean floor.
Coral Bay, with its few shops and restaurants, sits at the head of Coral Harbor. Emmaus Moravian Church, which has roots dating back to the 1700s, sits on your left as you make the turn. Head north to the island’s east end. The ride offers good views of Tortola and a small snack shop along the way, but there are no public beaches.
Head south along Route 107 from Coral Bay to Salt Pond. It’s a short distance to the white sandy beach and tranquil bay, but if you continue past the beach, a salt pond awaits you. In times past, islanders picked the salt crystals to flavor their food. A leisurely walk around the pond takes you to windswept Drunk Bay, while an hour-long hike uphill steers you through cactus gardens to the breathtaking lookout at Ram Head.
From Salt Pond, it’s only a 15-minute drive to the enchanting beach at Lameshur. While you’re sure to enjoy the snorkeling, hikers can head a bit farther down the road to find the Bordeaux Mountain Trail. It’s a steep trek of about 90 minutes, but you’ll be rewarded on the way up with wondrous views. You can also reach the top of the Bordeaux Mountain Trail from the road that leaves from the overlook on Centerline Road.
Hardy folks often make the 90-minute walk from Lameshur Bay to Reef Bay along a trail that leaves from the same area as the Bordeaux Mountain Trail — but others take the trail from its more popular starting point on Centerline Road. Near Reef Bay, a short side trail leads to petroglyphs. At the beach, hikers will see plantation ruins.
Centerline Road, the island’s main artery, continues back into Cruz Bay.
Find a complete list of activities, island tours and day trips, tour operators, charter boats for dive, snorkeling, fishing and swimming, golf and water sports - right here in our Activities Directory.
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